I know that China is a developing country and that in developing countries one is bound to run into problems that have no apparent connection with “logic” or “reality” because, quite simply, if one didn’t then the country would already be developed. Still, sometimes a situation develops that is so simply asinine that even a culturally adapted fellow such as myself is forced to shake his head furiously and curse everything and everyone. I was lucky enough to experience two such situations on Christmas Day.

After my second exam I went computer shopping with Carl, Alf and Amber. Carl and Alf had already bought computers and went along to get some parts, while Amber (Carl and I’s Chinese tutor) came along to help us translate. We were headed to the computer market on Wen San Lu, but first we needed to stop by the Bank of China branch near there to do a bit of international banking (I needed to withdraw money from my Suntrust account using my check card, and Carl needed to exchange money he got from his parents for Christmas).

Carl’s money exchange went smoothly, but the woman couldn’t get money out of my account. She kept telling me that I had to use the ATM, and I kept telling her that I had tried the ATMs and that they wouldn’t let me get money. I also told her that I was able to use the card as a credit card (at the few very large stores that accept credit cards) and that I was able to get money from ATMs in Shanghai with no problem whatsoever. I finally called Amber over and they chatted back and forth in Chinese for a while, finally settling on the idea that because it was a check card they couldn’t get money from it (they can only cash advance from credit cards, and apparently, despite being backed by Visa, they can’t do that with my card) and that there were four Bank of China ATMs in Hangzhou that should be able to process my card.

OK, no problem, I’ll just order my computer, get the money and pick it up tomorrow. So we went down the computer shop and I ordered a pretty nice computer (1.6GHz, 80GB HDD, 512MB RAM, GeForce4 MX440, 17″ Samsung monitor, 52/24/52 CD-R) for RMB 4100 (about $495). Carl and Alf split with Amber and I as they were going shopping for parts while Amber and I were headed off to the main branch of the Bank of China to get my money from the ATM.

A short taxi ride later we arrive and, guess what, the machine refuses my card, telling me that there is a transaction error and that I should contact my bank. Great, my bank is in the United States, and it’s freaking Christmas so even if I wanted to call I couldn’t. One of the other places that the first bank told us that I could use my card was rather near (and close to a cake shop that has cheesecake that Amber’s boyfriend likes) so we walked there and, not at all to my surprise, I encountered the same result.

So now I am left with two options. One, I will head back to the main branch of the Bank of China today (Friday) and try to get money from inside, where there are humans that will perhaps be more helpful than machines. Failing that, I am going to get a quick turnaround train ticket to Shanghai to use an ATM. Yes, I’m going to spend four hours on a train so that I can use a machine in a city whose banking network isn’t pieced together with carrier pigeons and bailing wire. Call my crazy, but I want my damn computer.

The second absolutely infuriating situation I faced yesterday involves the taxi service in Hangzhou. Now, for the most part, the taxis are very reliable, available and inexpensive. However, whatever genius decided that the drivers’ shift change should be right in the middle of rush hour should be strung up by their toes and skinned alive, slowly.

After leaving the hotel that contained the second ATM that was supposed to work but didn’t, Amber and I spent at least 45 minutes trying to find a taxi that was available. There were dozens of taxis out, running empty without their little “open” signs up, but they wouldn’t take anyone because they were getting off work. Or, even better, were ones that would pull over and ask you where you wanted to go and if it wasn’t in the right direction they would refuse. Quite a few taxi drivers got the international sign of friendship and learned the word “cunt” from yours truly last night (cut me some slack, I was having a frustrating day). When we finally got a cab the cabbie tried to convince Amber that it was just because the traffic is so bad, but that doesn’t explain so many totally empty cabs blowing by us.

I know that I should be more patient and accepting of China’s shortcomings (I mean differences) but there are times when all the patience in the world gives way to angry, feral cultural relativism. I think what makes it most annoying is that every day I hear some Chinese person, either a student talking about “the New China” or a CCTV talking head talking about the same, boast about how soon they will be on par with the West in every way.

You’ve come a long way China, but oh my do you have a long way to go.

Posted by John on Thursday, December 25th, 2003 at 5:49 pm.